Day13 Bryce to Springdale via Zion

** PHOTOS WILL BE ADDED SOON - PLEASE COME BACK **

Woke up to cloudy skies, breakfasted in room from stores and were away from the hotel by 09:20.

Not far down the road we went through Red Rock Canyon where featured cliffs of deep red came down to the road. The level of redness in the rocks depends on the concentration of Iron Oxide (rust) and can take the view from coral pink through orange to quite a deep red.
As we exited Red Rock Canyon, the red features ceased suddenly and we drove at a steady 65mph through what, on any other day would be a beautiful route but with what we have been seeing day after day felt almost ordinary. The roads again are wide and quiet and driving is non taxing largely on cruise control

The route descended 4000 ft on the way to Zion and the temperature rose from around 20 to 33 by the time we hit the boundary of the Zion National Park about 11:00, at lot earlier than anticipated.

Again we experienced the sudden switch from 'normal' geography to crazy that has been typical of arrival at all the National Parks we have visited.

We joined the queue for a mile long tunnel built 1920s for smaller vehicles that today so operating alternate one direction flow whenever a larger vehicle needs to go through. A coach 5 cars in front of us meant that we followed through in one way which I was quite glad of. Being an old tunnel, there is no lighting, no reflective paint and no side space, the two lanes are immediately adjacent and narrow so oncoming headlights would not have been fun.

We traversed the park and arrived Springdale too early to check in at La Quinta but used their parking lot whilst we walked into the pleasant town for a good pastrami sandwich & salad.

Still to early to check in we jumped on a free shuttle bus from the town to the Park. Parking in the entry area of the Park is limited and no private vehicles are allowed in the Canyon area except winter months. At the Visitor Centre, we transferred to the in Park free shuttle for the 40 minute with stops journey to the head of the valley. It was now very hot and the air con on the buses consisted of every available window and roof hatch being open.

We travelled through highland mountain country, massive cliffs, shapes reminiscent of the Cairngorms but with reds and whites and vivid greens in the valleys. The last stop on the shuttle is the Temple of Sinawava where the 1 mile walk to The Narrow starts. We had a paddle in Virgin River (Branson gets everywhere!), exchanging taking couple photos with an old Dutch guy and his Chinese American partner an amazingly smiley lady.

The shuttles then returned us to Springdale where we were finally able to Check in. We like the La Quinta brand and headed to our room only to find that we were on the end of a building looking at the diggers and workmen building the next lodge in the complex. A miserable view which we really didn't want for the next 2 nights. We requested a change of room and after some discussion have a pleasant room near the pool.

The Narrows, mentioned earlier, is our entertainment for tomorrow. Essentially, you walk beyond where the path finishes in the river upstream through narrow canyons. It is very highly recommended that you hire sturdy water boots and neoprene socks for this enterprise and a stout wooden walking pole to lean on and test depth. The water is heavy with sediment so, though a darker green suggests depth, you can't look through the water to see precisely where your are stepping.

The Wind was suddenly blowing up, dust whipping into the air and the sky going black. Some rain falling but we need to get our gear for The Narrows. We drive rounded to Zion Adventure and meet a very professional service. We sit and watch a video before even fitting kit which shows the dangers involved.. with a little comedy of someone who was the spit of Alan Davies (QI) falling all over and splashing others. Warnings completed we moved onto boot and neoprene sock fitting which got us seriously hot. Lynne's small foot size meant that the tight ankle of the sock presented real problems getting over the rest of the foot. It was exhausting! Kit chosen we were warned that a flash flood warning had just been received and the Narrows may be closed in the morning. A an actual closure means full refund we took our chance, hired the gear after signing risk agreements and dumped our gear in the car.

Next stop buy more water from garage shop then back to room to chill for a while and choose where to eat.

Wildcat Willies was our choice and we had one of the best pasta meals we have ever had. It's a good job we had the same as the pieces of garlic were prominent in the sauce as well as an excellent garlic bread. A bottle of Californian Chardonnay completed the picture nicely.

Across the road to the sandwich shop we had lunch at with a view to a packed lunch for tomorrow but the sandwich bar was closed for the evening. Not sure what we'll do, have to cross that bridge in the morning but we do want to get away early providing the Narrows is open. Wish us luck, the skies are still dark.

Statistics: Miles today: 84 miles; Miles so far: 1809; Fuel today nil gals; Fuel so far: 59.999 gals; States: Utah; Time Zone: Mountain (UK-7)

09:20-12:40

Day12 Bryce Canyon Tour Day

** PHOTOS ADDED BUT NEED ORGANISING **
For the past few days, the start of the day has been blue skied and sunny then about 11 the clouds would come in with some rain then for the rest of the afternoon though it would become very hot it would be duller and always with a risk of rain. In view of this, we decided last night that we should start a walk down into the amphitheatre early morning leaving a driving tour for the afternoon.

When my phone alarm went at 7:10 I didn't feel like getting up. I hadn't slept well and was very tired and my stomach was a bit dodgy, however we pushed on and not bothering with a shower we had breakfast in the room and were out and at walk start at Sunset Point for  9 o'clock start.

Early on descent

Even at this hour, there were plenty of people about though they were good company. The Walk was only 2.8 miles but dropped 600 feet down into the amphitheatre to wander amongst the Hoodoo's. A gradual winding drop, it was already hot and by the time we reached the top again, the 2 litres of water we had with us was gone. The rim is around 9000ft and we have been at 6 to 10,000 for the last 3 days so have acclimatised quite well but though 9,000ft is not that high it is still noticeable that oxygen isn't as forthcoming.

The experience of this walk can only really be told in pictures, the descent was gradual and winding through orange rock and in the valley bottom dried up stream bed wandered amongst fir trees and coloured rock towers.

We found the ascent easier than expected. A narrow track made its was through narrow canyons and gained height quickly in a constant series of tight switchbacks. The massive advantage of this geography was that the canyon's steep narrow sides kept us in the shade for most of the climb. By the time we reached the rim shortly after 11 the heat was stifling and clouds were appearing. As we reached the car the first drops of rain fell.

Route back up

We changed our address to Smug Lane, Smug, Smug City.

Driving down to the Lodge in the National Park, we headed for the a general store which served sandwiches, pretzels and drinks which we enjoyed on the patio outside.

After lunch, we headed back to our hotel for a shower and change of cloths. I caught up with some planning and notes for blogging and Lynne washed a few tee shirts and underwear before we headed out to the Park again.

A road runs right through to the end of the Park, which is actually a small one with several view points along. We drove straight through to the end mainly in rain but the clouds parted when we reached Rainbow Point and we went for a 1hr amble through the pine woods seeing remains of Bristlecones (talked of in Capitol Reef post). From there, we moved along the road stopping and looking at views as we went including at a natural arch.

We revisited Bryce Point from last night as the best view of all. Today the light is still high and shadows form amongst  the hoodoos. The view changes constantly with light but we think the morning light was the best. A final view point Inspiration Point just because it meant we could see the area we had walked then off to a Pizzeria near the lodge where we had an excellent salad, pizza and beer meal.


Returning to Ruby's Inn city we wandered through the shops, owned by the same people as the Hotel, Garage and Campground. Ruby's Inn city was founded in 2007 :).

Back to our room with some beers from the Ruby's Inn general store to TV, blog writing and bed.

Statistics: Miles today: 78 miles; Miles so far: 1803; Fuel today nil gals;  Fuel so far: 59.999 gals; States: Utah; Time Zone: Mountain (UK-7)

08:30-20:00

Day11 Torrey to Bryce

** PHOTOS WILL BE ADDED SOON - PLEASE COME BACK **

We woke up to a view out of our window with horses and a barn on a lovely morning having slept very well. Breakfast was good apart from little cartons as the orange drink and no fruit.

We called in at the General Store in Torrey to collect stores for evening meal and breakfast as food at the next hotel is not well spoken of with regard to service and quality and there is nowhere else to eat.

We headed out to Route 12 which is considered a scenic route and very well spoken of in travelogues expecting the red rock and cliffs of yesterday at Capitol Reef but instead headed across pastures in green valleys with cattle grazing. We encountered 2 cows loose on the road where there was wire both side so it was clearly not open grazing. A quarter of a mile down the road we saw 2 cowboys by the gates of a cattle ranch on the left. The guy inside was sorting out the horses whilst an old guy in full checkered shirt and stetson even with spurs on his boots leant against the gate one leg up on a spar. We pulled over and circled the car right up to him whilst he dedicatedly ignored us. I opened the window and shouted over whereupon he deigned to glance around. I told him of the cows on the road to which he simple responded with a single thumb up and returned to watching the other guy. Communicative chap.

Continuing on we climbed and scraggy scrub land took over before turning into rolling forest of Ponderosa pines followed by Aspen with tall thin white trunks and green valleys appeared hear and there. Over the forests and the scenery opened into wide views of Capitol Reef and Waterpocket fold tinged orange and then massive white features began to take over the whole scene.

In every direction the landscape filled with white rock in domes and escarpments, towers and gullies. As far as the eye could see white and orange monuments spread away to blue hills in the distance.
At one point, the road travels across a ridge, the Hogs Back, dropping down to either side.  We turned and passed a second time to take it in and at the end notice a motorbike with UK plates. Stopping and chatting to the retired couple they had been throughout Canada, toured all sort of part of the USA including Alaska and were carrying on 'till their visa ran out when they planned to head down to Mexico. True adventurers.

The odd features continued at one point seeing our first true canyon.
All along this are there are remains of the Pioneer days when the Mormon settlers moved in these areas. The stories of road built are amazing with tens of wagons heading out with families on board and journeys expected to last 6 weeks taking 6 months. The men would go ahead blasting and shovelling before the train moved forward and the final stop point would be the latest that the land could be irrigated in time to plant crops for the season. Lynne loves these histories so a lot of information boards got read.

Approaching lunchtime, in the distance more dramatic orange features and the coloured horizontal layers in the rock became clearer as we arrived at the town of Escalente.
We had read of a burger shack called Nemo's which was loved by and had our minds set on eating there and having their ice cream. We found it quickly and read the notice on the door, closed for 4 days! Somewhat disillusioned we passed through the town and took a chance on Circle D bar and grill which turned out an excellent choice. A fine burger and fries in a nice atmosphere with very friendly service.

Nearing the Bryce area we pulled into a store at the town of Tropic and were tempted by ice cream. Stood next to a family from Bristol UK, we had choices including Cake Mix and Cookie Dough. The Cake Mix did taste like scraping the bowl after my Mum had backed when I was a kid but the size of a single scoop actually defeated Me! and I had to bin the last of it. The girl serving was very chatty and when hearing of someone in difficultiues at Zion said, "Oh, my dad will have been involved then, he's the local cop.", somehow, it felt a small world out here.

Continuing on, towers of red sand features announced our arrival in Bryce area and we drew into Ruby's Inn city, a conglomerations of hotel, restaurant, shops etc. The hotel sprawls with many annexes and lodges attached but we are in the main part and our room is fine.

After booking in, we headed to Bryce Canyon Park entrance which is literally 5 mins from the hotel and called in the visitor centre to collect info' and maps to plan our visit.

Returned to the hotel and microwaved our meal bought this morning before heading out to Bryce Point about 20 mins into the park. Here we had our first sight of the 'canyon' which actually isn't a canyon but 3 amphitheatres. Description is impossible of this weird beautiful sight. 'Hoodoo's and fins of rock from white and coral pink to deep orange extend all around below a rim that when approaching is just a rolling thin forest. We stayed until about 8:30 watching a cloudy sunset as the hoodoos faded into the gloom.
This are is famed for it's dark star filled skies but we have a full dazzling moon & cloud so can only see a few.

Back at the room, tired after a long day we down a beer and here in southern Utah 7000 miles from home watch English TV: Yes Minister & As Time Goes By.

Statistics: Miles today: 121 miles; Miles so far: 1846; Fuel today 9.058 gals;  Fuel so far: 69.057 gals; States: Utah; Time Zone: Mountain (UK-7)

10:00-16:40

Day10 Scipio to Torrey via Capitol Reef

Utah is Mormon country and everything tends to be tidy, roads are wide, houses are more finished and since we neared Scipio irrigation seems to be no problem even to the point of neat manicured lawns around some buildings. An total contrast to Nevada and the deserts.

Leaving the town, the whole area is softer on the eye with a gentle green even through the golden late summer pasture. Agriculture now includes tall fields of sweetcorn and cows graze in the wide valleys. An addition decoration is would sunflowers growing in the verges.

Progressing south east through pleasant lands and finished small towns we curve gently around and over the country with very few long straight roads.

Passing our hotel for tonight at Torrey, we carry on toward Capitol Reef and bending around an escarpment
we are suddenly faced with the extraordinary red country of Southern Utah which we will be exploring over the next few days.

Exploring the Capitol Reef National Park is largely driving scenic roads and tracks. We extended the 12 mile scenic drive along a metalled road by a further 2 miles of un-metalled road into a gorge with massive vertical red walls and then parking at the end we hike the trail along the Capitol Gorge Road which one carried traffic through to the next valleys. On the walls of the gorge are pictograph's (drawings) from early native American inhabitants and then names and messages from pioneers from the late 1800's through to the 1930's.

On the way back down the scenic road we diverted again into Grand Wash Road, again un-mettaled, and wound leaving a trail of dust through the gorge. The term 'wash' means that this dry sandy channel is actually a flood in storms and warnings are displayed not to enter if storms are due. An enjoyable ride and interesting for being part of the actual area that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid hid out in.

More roads with some local history of families and schooling where shacks and building still stand then back to the hotel for a sensible time. Made use of the indoor pool and the hot tub then drove to a bar the other side of town for a meal.

The Saddlery was a cowboy themed bar restaurant with music most nights but not this so was quiet. Poo, table down one entire side of the room and a dance floor at one end. We decided this was definitely the place for steak but, though everything else was great, my medium-rare was well done. I did the un-British thing of pointing this out when ashed how is everything. I declined a replacement as it would disrupt our meal but was please to be given a discount and apology when the bill arrived.

Eastern extreme of journey

Today we reached the Eastern extreme of our journey and now head south before going west again.

Statistics: Miles today: 151 miles; Miles so far: 1725; Fuel today 9.468 gals;  Fuel so far: 59.999 gals; States: Utah; Time Zone: Mountain (UK-7)

9:50-18:10

Day9 Ely to Scipio via Great Basin

Forgot to mention yesterday seeing nodding donkey oil pumps and desert racing, trial bikes and dune buggies. Seemed to be a big deal with camps of RVs, marshal points at road crossings and trucks with tanks on there roof filling up at garages.

So, to today. Today was a day another day of wide vistas. 

Great Basin from Wheeler Peak Scenic drive

We left Ely heading over a ridge and hit the roads go on for miles in a straight line again. The first half of the day is in the Great Basin, a massive flat area surrounded by hills. We head to the Great Basin National Park area. As always we had an outline itinerary in mind to be used as a baseline but ready to change to fit time.

Options included the Leghman Caves but after talking to the guy at the Visitor Info Centre we found it was a 1:30 tour at booked times and with another 200 miles to go after this visit we knew the latest we could be away was about 2:30. We decided to stick to the Scenic Drive 12 miles up Wheeler Peak to 10,000 ft and a 2.5 Mi trail to visit the Bristlecone Pines.

3,200 Years old and still alive (tree)

The Bristlecome Pines are extraordinary trees living as much as 4,000 years. When the trees die they do not rot being intensely resinous but stay in tact and simply weather. Cross matching ring patterns from living and dead Bristlecones has been used as a way of bench marking carbon dating. One living tree was 3,200 years old taking it back to having been a sapling before the pyramids were built in Egypt.

At the trail-head car park it began to rain just before we left and we thought we'd let the heaviest pass, 2 mins later it was hail stone!  We set of with waterproofs in 16 degrees and at 10,000 feet noticed the difference in effort but is was a lovely walk and the trees, though just trees, were intensely interesting.

Looking up to cwm under Wheeler Peak

At the top of the trail we also had views up to the albeit small glacier and massive corrie under the high top of Wheeler Peak.Occasional thunder rumbled overhead and we had a couple of showers light enough to shelter under trees. 

Still Waiting for the RAC

Returning to the car, the temperature went from 16 up near the pines to 35. We had lunch, sandwiches purchased this morning, and headed off now 3 pm.

That's 18 miles

Dropping down into Grand Basin itself, the roads extend as far as you can see. I remembered to check on one straight and it was 18 miles without so much as a wobble. Though the land around is flat,
there are hills in every direction and charging along with cruise control set the drive is a pleasure.  

It's not long before we hit the state border and leave Nevada heading into Utah. This arbitrary line also means that we lose an hour as we move from Pacific to Mountain time. Utah has a 65 limit on open road where Nevada was 70 but I may have pushed the envelope a little from time to time.

We eventually leave the Great Basin and pass high into Skull Rock pass dropping through tight curves to the next massive open area. The geological monoliths of the pass form shapes like Mexican temples and in the distance huge cliffs stand with black and white strata clear in slightly off horizontal.

The next open vista includes a massive salt lake but sadly we pass several miles away so don't get to actually see the surface close up.

Around the town of Delta, the desertifiied earth changes to pasture, at first the circles of green you see from the air are on google maps. These have an irrigation frame on wheels travelling around a central water feed point, hence the circle. After this we see fields of corn, wheat and silleage being collected, all a new sight after the dried out barren areas we have travelled. By the time we are close to our destination, gold coloured pasture extends toward the hills lit by the lowering sun.

Having lost the hour to the wonder of time zones we arrive at our hotel at Skipio at 7pm. Not too bad considering we left Great Basin so late but the only places to eat are Dairy Queen (a burger place) which closed at..... 7pm and Subway. Great, Subway will do. Notice on door "Sorry for inconvenience, we are closed at 7 tonight". Aarrrgh!   SO, tonight gourmet dinner was a garage shop microwave burger and re-hydrated noodles with fruit salad and a bottle of Pinot fortunately purchased this morning which made everything better.

Statistics: Miles today: 237 miles; Miles so far: 1574; Fuel today 9.54 gals;  Fuel so far: 50.531 gals; States: Nevada, Utah; Time Zone: pm Mountain (UK-7), am Pacific(UK-8)

10:40-19:00 (Mountain) 18:00(Pacific)

Day8 June Lakes to Ely

** PHOTOS WILL BE ADDED SOON - PLEASE COME BACK **

We woke in our cabin to the sound of bird song surrounded by trees which was novel for this trip. We had breakfast with us, (including two bowls of cereal from yesterday's hotel - naughty), so were able to get on the road just after 9am. Today is very much a driving day with 330 miles to cover so we're aware we must keep moving.
June Lakes sits in a loop of road running through a valley so we set off north having approached from the South. The Sierra hills are beautiful and open up over Silver Lake, a large lake backed by forest and cliffs already populated with small boats and fishing parties from the camping parks alongside.

In the early part of our journey we visited Mono Lake which is geological oddity. It has no outlets and water level only drops naturally due to condensation. Some years ago Los Angeles started taking water from it and the level dropped considerable causing the already high concentration of salts to to escalate. Underwater springs rising from the bottom created tufa towers, the equivalent of stalactites but going upwards from the lake bottom. As the water level fell, many these formations are now on land or rising out of the waters. A particular breeds of flies live on the salt and create black strands which come alive and buzz loudly as you walk through them, however, they stay 1" above the floor and are not interested in flesh so are not unpleasant.
Leaving Mono Lakes on the 102 we are faced with "42 miles of narrow winding road" but the road remains a full carriageway and the bends for the most part can be taken at 50mph.
This road does have a feature that several people have told us to enjoy. The tarmac is just laid on the rolling land with no attempt to flatten and sections are like roller coaster rides switching between downward G force and weightless stomach. A few too many too fast makes you feel very odd. Have to watch the blind summits, more for a bend after than oncoming traffic as it's all double lines no overtaking.

We have crossed into Nevada so now has a 70mph limit and we begin to encounter the desert. The textures vary throughout the day but this early section looks like a tarmac car park 20 miles across that has been abandoned and the weeds are breaking through the surface. We encounter road heading many many miles in straight lines and pass through lunar scenery with rock strewn dust, salt lakes, rolling areas of low brush, low hills full of different colours from mineral deposits.It's notable that we are 50 miles north of Death Valley and a lot of the scenery is familiar. At one point we see a small twister travelling along and crossing the road half a mile ahead.
This area has very few towns and you have to make sure you have sufficient fuel. Looking at today's drive on Google Satellite reveals a burnt out uninhabitable zone. It is extraordinary that there are a couple of tiny towns, one announced its population proudly as 13 and a half.

Eventually, about 30 miles short of our destination we head through a pass and some colour comes into the vegetation.

Booked into La Quinta which is as well because there is no available accommodation due to a Fair and Horse races this weekend.

Statistics: Miles today: 327 miles; Miles so far: 1337; Fuel today 4.359 gals;  Fuel so far: 39.991 gals; States: California, Nevada; Time Zone: Pacific(UK-8)

09:15-18:00

Day7 Oakhurst to June Lakes via Yosemite

** PHOTOS WILL BE ADDED SOON - PLEASE COME BACK **

Breakfast at the Comfort Inn Oakhurst which proved to be a perfectly adequate lodge for our two nights. We have found picking up a Subway as a lunchtime sandwich very effective and we had one across the road so collected that, filled up with fuel and headed off for Yosemite around 10:30.
Our plan was to visit the giant sequoias at Maricosa Grove which is just inside the park but all the parking lots were full and we would have had to use the shuttle but from 4 miles away. This type of holiday is marked by having to decide what not to do as you did in here and there. Before you leave everyone has what you must see, do and where you must eat but you have to play it as it comes. We decided that seeing the sequoias here would have too bad an impact on the day.
We drove straight through non-stop to the central valley as we had seen it all yesterday then joined the road up to the Tioga pass which would take us East over the mountains.
On the North side crossing the attractive creek where families played we passed directly under El Capitan. From the meadow adjacent we could just see 2 climbers high on the face. The climb is over 3000ft up a vertical face and apparently takes most climbers 3 days bivouacking on ledges on the way. We know this as we chatted to an old Dutch guy in the meadow who had climbed it in his younger days. It seems the hardest aspect is the temperature, many hours on the face in excess of 30 degrees and the rock is also hot to touch.

Shortly after the road intersection in the valley we reached Tuolumne Grove, another of the few location where Sequoias can be seen. A mile and down 400ft from the car we saw trees as wide as 10ft and over 300ft tall. Some of the Sequoias in the park are 3000 years old predating Christianity and Roman empires. We were just about to head back up the 1 mile 400ft hike when some little buzzing b**stard decided to take a chunk out of Lynne's arm so we headed up rapidly to get to the antihistamine cream. Her arm still hurts now 8 hours later but seems ok.

Yesterday's Southern side was carpeted with pine forest but the North opens out more with bare domes of granite rock scattered with trees hanging on in cracks. We stop occasionally marvelling at different views but generally keep moving. On sop late in the journey looks back across high ground to Half Dome. Asa we reach the eastern side of the Sierra the terrain changes from domes of solid granite to volcanic with softer stone and reader hillsides.  Finally, we see Mono Lake and drop down to the plains, a diversion to Lee Vining to the general stores and then down to June Lakes.
I had expected more sharp dark peaks but the area is a softer low mountain scape, sitting around 8000ft with sage brush giving the hillsides that frosty colour.

We're inside now at Reverse Creek Lodge. Our lodge is a wooden building with about ten others, compact and quaint. Pizza and Garlic bread cooked and eaten and most of the wine drunk.  There is an amazing dark sky but our neighbours have their outside light on :( and there aren't many gaps in the trees overhead.  I'll have another look later.  Good night.

Statistics: Miles today: 136 miles; Miles so far: 1010; Fuel today 9.2 gals;  Fuel so far: 35.632 gals; States:  California; Time Zone: Pacific(UK-8)

10:30-18:45